What could have been

We had a few hours in Tenerife’s capital, Santa Cruz.  We sampled coffee, walked through a local market, and took a bus to a beach several miles away.  The time went by quickly and we got underway.  That’s all.  The end.  Really, unless a person gets outside this capital city, there is not much to distinguish it from an industrial city.

If only city planners had kept the industrial parts of the city away from the city center.  If only.  The needs of city inhabitants were not part of the planning process.  It appears that industrial giants took advantage of a weak local government.  The port was covered with huge cranes and dreary support buildings.  It was one of the ugliest ports I have every seen.  Once I got away from the waterfront, the city took on the appearance of any other modern city.  Cafes, traffic, and a horn or two greeted those who walked along the streets.

The beach was well-known and beautiful except for the oil exploration platform floating a mile or so away in the “currently” crystal clear waters.  The beach had soft clean sand and there were little places to purchase a bit of food and drink.  Umbrellas and chairs could be rented and paddle boats too.  No matter where we went, the locals were friendly.  Very friendly.  But Santa Cruz could have been so much more.

The next day we entered Madeira’s capital, Funchal.  The port was absolutely beautiful.  We took a taxi to a beach only a couple of miles away and the city was like something out of a Disneyland resort theme.  Green plants were everywhere and the houses or apartments were well maintained and had a sense of coordinated planning.  The taxi driver let us out where the road met the beach and offered to return if we called his personal number.  We got out and began our walk along the beach.

This beach is not how most Americans would think of this beach.  The small grey stones were piled up into dunes and they were missing at other locations where the ocean met the land.  Pebbles and stones the size of soccer balls met anyone who decided to go to the water’s edge.  Though few people were in the water or on the beach, it was obvious that people enjoy this beach at other times of the year.  Steps to the beach were available every hundred feet or so and we stopped at the first place we found that served coffee.

Who ever heard of putting wine in coffee?  Not me.  But, I wanted to try something local and it was called a Madeira coffee–made from coffee, local wine, and whipped cream.  It was yucky to the last drop.  We tried a few more items and then moved on to the next eating/drinking establishment.  We might have stayed at the first place had their WIFI worked.  Oh well, I’m so glad the WIFI wasn’t working.

The next place was amazing as were the people who sat down next to us.  The server brought a local red wine and a plate with bits of fish and vegetables.  Soon, a couple of ladies sat down and ordered a green wine and I asked them what it was.  It turns out that Jacquie and Sylvia journey to Madeira every year from England and I ordered my own glass of their green wine.  They ordered some food and I ordered their food too.  We shared a conversation about the beans brought out with their drinks instead of nuts and chips.  At this point, a man at another table said the same beans are served in Italy.  It turns out Igor is from Denmark and is a tour guide several months of the year on the Amalfi Coast.

Soon the English, Americans, and the Danish customers were all crowded around a couple of tables talking about local wine, food, and the beach experience.  More wine was served and Poncha too.  Igor told how it used to be served to poor fishermen and that it was now served to everyone.  After FaceBook friend requests were made and accepted, we had to leave and we left with Jacquie leading the way.  We walked along the beach past where our taxi driver left us and continued toward our cruise ship.  The walk was beautiful and involved some caves and plenty of steps and the usual, beautiful vistas.  A taxi took us the rest of the way to the ship since we were nearly out of time.

Even without meeting such wonderful people, Madeira was a wonderful place to visit.  It is definitely a place I’d like to explore even more.  Santa Cruz?  Never.  This is my tale of two cities.

Cruise: 16 Feb 2015

Monte Carlo was not in the cards. The winds were too high for our ship to safely navigate into the harbor so we diverted a few miles away to the city of Nice, France. The winds and waves died down a bit by noon and we took little shuttle boats into the port. Continue reading

Cruise: 15 Feb 2015

A day in Livorno.

Well, not actually in Livorno, just on the boat in the harbor. This industrial harbor doesn’t present itself well to the visitor, but the port is another gateway to the world of Italy. Pisa, as in the Leaning Tower of, is a short bus ride away and Florence is a bit further. I once overheard a couple of sailors talking about Florence and one said to the other “what can I do in Florence for four days?” He was not asking for travel tips, he simply could not imagine there was that much to see. Continue reading

Valencia Redux

A second 2015 trip to Valencia was only a bit different than the first. A second walk through ancient streets and peeks into churches that took hundreds of years to complete and another opportunity to taste the local food.

The streets were just the same, the churches were still populated with more tourists than worshippers, and the local food was very good again. Maybe this is what makes these old cities so immortal. People pass through them yet that which makes Valencia, Valencia, remains the same. Treasures like this city exist as they have for thousands of years and the character remains largely unchanged; whether the political system is inclusive or oppressive or secular or religious. Valencia suffered through the Inquisition and through the Islamic invasions hundreds of years earlier, and the wars to literally push the Islamic hordes from its shores. Now there are the cruise ships with their hordes, just waiting to sample local cuisine and Spanish hospitality.

Truthfully, the second time at Valencia is probably the last. I’ll leave it for others to explore and experience. The old city takes only an afternoon to see and I have little appetite for the encroaching modern buildings. There is little in the way of perspective that modern architects can bring to bear and city planners are probably beholden to those who put them in office.

So, I am on the cruise ship watching Valencia disappear in the distance while the sun sets on the day. I look forward to recommendations that might bring me back to this part of Spain. I look forward to being surprised and I look forward to finding a new reason to come back to this part of the world.

Cruise: 14 Feb 2015

Valentine’s Day. Guess which of us forgot today was Valentine’s Day?image Continue reading